February 23, 2013
Bugs and beads
Vintage pieces, insects and mother's style influence artist's unique jewelry designs
Chris Dorst
Blake strings a bead design near a photo of her daughter Lily.
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Chris Dorst
Jewelry designer Mary Blake created this necklace from a 1940s brooch she found in Chicago.
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Her mother also gifted young Mary with a love of jewelry.

"Mom was a jewelry hound. The woman would wear three necklaces at a time, four bracelets, lots of rings. She had jewelry that she'd bring out just for the summer, like a jewelry wardrobe." Blake remembers her mother wore specific pieces only in certain seasons, and some jewelry she wore only in Hawaii.

Blake lost her mother to breast cancer in 2000, and her voice catches when she remembers. "When Mom died and my sisters and I divvied up her jewelry, I asked for her Hawaii pieces because that was the mother I knew, the mother I loved the most."

Blake met her husband, Ben, a Nicholas County native, when they were students at Denison University. She minored in studio art and majored in English literature. After a few years in California, the couple returned to the East Coast to be with Blake's mother during her battle with cancer; they moved to West Virginia in 2009 in search of a low-key, peaceful lifestyle.

Though she experimented with a range of artistic expression, Blake found her true passion in 1999 when she started working for Beadazzled, a bead store in Evanston, Ill. Her boss at Beadazzled had a creative gift. "Her thing was taking ideas out of magazines and making them yourself instead of paying $300 from J. Jill or Anthropologie," said Blake. "I'd make $45 a day and use it as a credit to buy my own supplies and then bead all day."

Though Blake still has many beads she's collected over the years, now she buys Studio Lilybean's beads from online companies and her own treasure hunting on Etsy, eBay and at estate sales. "I go to the boonies out here and I just pick up anything I can get my hands on," she said.

She sifts through a lot of pins to find material worthy of becoming a Studio Lilybean original, and she's learned to recognize patterns in various vintage pin styles. She said there are time periods when "certain things were done really well" or were popular, like marcasite in the Victorian era and enamel work in the 1960s and 1970s.

She also does custom pieces, like turning one bracelet into three new pieces of jewelry; such work allows one heirloom to be shared by multiple people.

Blake doesn't want a bricks-and-mortar shop, preferring trunk shows and the East End Bazaar, where people can touch the jewelry and ask about its history. She really likes Charleston, and laughs remembering how scared she was the first time a West Virginian stopped to help her when she had a flat tire. She says in Chicago when strangers stop, you prepare to get mugged.

"This is such a 'Portland Oregony' kind of place. That's why I dig Charleston. People are so cool here and unusual and awesome. So encouraging of the arts. I just like that about this place. It's amazing."

See more of Mary Blake's work on her website, www.etsy.com/shop/StudioLilybean. Contact her at studiolilyb...@gmail.com.

Reach Elizabeth Gaucher at Elizabeth.Gauc...@wvgazette.com or 304-348-1249.

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