May 7, 2008
A sushi primer
Pan-Asian cuisine isn't all about raw fish
Advertiser

For anyone who loves to look at those artfully arranged platters of sushi, but feels intimidated by the unidentified offerings, Ichiban co-owner Laura Miller offers a sushi primer.

First, a clarification. Those sliced rolls of sticky rice with centers of vegetables and seafood are not sushi. They're called maki and are a mild choice for first-timers to Pan-Asian cuisine. Some centers contain raw fish, but others have smoked salmon, or cooked shrimp and lobster. Others are vegetarian rolls.

Shrimp is always served cooked, unless it is "sweet shrimp." Clams are always cooked. If the ingredients aren't clear on the menu, just ask your server which rolls are particularly mild or don't contain raw fish.

"Our number-one roll is Lobster Crunch Maki, which has cream cheese, avocado, tempura crunch rolled in rice, then topped with lobster salad. It's topped with a sweet dark sauce," Miller said. So much for the notion that the requisite fresh ingredients would produce light fare. "Lobster Crunch Maki is definitely an indulgence."

The California roll is a popular choice for first-timers. Rolled in black seaweed paper, the center is a cooked imitation crab stick, cucumber and avocado. It's wrapped in rice bound together with rice wine vinegar. All rolls are cut into six or eight pieces and served with soy sauce spicy green wasabi and pink pickled ginger.

Some other notable maki combinations at Ichiban are Boston maki (lettuce, avocado and smoked salmon), Rainbow maki (avocado, smelt roe, crabstick and five kinds of fish), Philly maki (smoked salmon, cream cheese and cucumbers), and Almost Heaven maki (shrimp blue crab, green onions, spicy mayo and chili pepper.)

Some patrons mix the wasabi into their soy sauce to give the rolls extra bite when dipped in the sauce. Others dab the wasabi directly on their rolls for even more zing. A taste of the ginger between courses cleanses the palate.

Sushi is the next step up from maki. Sushi is molded rice with a thin piece of raw fish on top. The fish in sushi is always raw, but it's not just any fish.

"Sushi is made with 'sushi-grade' fish. It's the best you can get," Miller said. "Our suppliers must be certified that their fish is sushi-grade."

When discussing raw fish consumption, the topic of health and safety naturally comes up. The health department inspects Ichiban's facilities every three months, twice as often as establishments that don't serve sushi, said Miller.

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