CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- One component of Charleston's FestivALL celebration, which begins Friday when the city becomes a work of art, features catfish as the unofficial "mascot."

It represents the pleasure fishing enjoyed by the community in the Kanawha River, and the theme has been carried out during FestivALL for several years with prominently displayed, imaginative and colorfully decorated papier-mâché catfish.

Let's take the fish from the street into the kitchen today. Catfish is a little like cilantro -- you like it or you don't, period. No middle ground.

Today's farm-raised catfish has a greater appeal than yesterday's offerings and lately it has made an appearance in the repertoire of "gourmet" chefs. The whiskery swimmer kinda went highbrow.

It has just as many health benefits as other fish, but there isn't any reason you can't make substitutions in the recipe. I often switch to orange roughy, which is very mild tasting yet sturdy.

The fish is baked, which is better for us and cuts to zero the sizzle and splatter of popping oil, unless you do something weird in the oven.

You may use regular mayonnaise in the tartar sauce if you don't plan to eat it as you would a bowl of cereal. There are some dishes that I occasionally choose to use the "real" mayonnaise, especially when it isn't something you eat every day, three times a day. Remember moderation in that instance.

You can make a nice Po' Boy sandwich by placing the cooked catfish on toasted wheat bun or sub roll with lettuce, spring mix, arugula or baby spinach leaves, sliced tomato and the tartar sauce. A big splash of hot sauce is optional.

Oven-Fried Fish

Makes 4 servings.

     1     pound catfish, cut into 4 portions

     1/4  cup flour

     3/4     teaspoon Old Bay, Cajun/Creole, cayenne pepper or Mrs. Dash seasoning (optional)

     1/4     teaspoon salt

     1/4     teaspoon pepper

     2    egg whites

     2    cups crumbs -- plain or seasoned Panko or dry bread crumbs; crushed cornflake crumbs

RINSE and pat dry fish.

COMBINE flour, seasoning, salt and pepper in bowl; beat egg whites in second bowl; place crumbs in third bowl.

DREDGE fish in flour, dip into egg whites, allowing excess to drip off, then coat on both sides in crumbs.

PLACE on rack set in shallow baking pan; coat both sides of breaded fish with cooking spray.

BAKE at 350° about 20 minutes or until cooked through. (Cooking time varies with thickness of the fish.)

Nutrition information: Per portion: 270 calories, 90 calories from fat, 10 grams fat, 2.5 grams saturated fat, 55 milligrams cholesterol, 260 milligrams sodium, 21 grams carbohydrates, less than 1 gram fiber, 1 gram protein.

Tartar Sauce

Makes 1/2 cup.

     1/2  cup mayonnaise

     2     tablespoons dill relish

     1/4     teaspoon dried minced onion

     1/4     teaspoon dried parsley

MIX all ingredients, blending well.

COVER and refrigerate for flavors to mellow until serving time.

Nutrition information: Per tablespoon: 50 calories, 45 calories from fat, 5 grams fat, 1 gram saturated fat, zero milligrams cholesterol, 140 milligrams sodium, 1 gram carbohydrates, zero grams fiber, zero grams protein.

Reach Judy Grigoraci at ...@suddenlink.net.