CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- Driving across the country on two-lane back roads, talking to people in local restaurants and bars, always reveals the incredible diversity of our country and its people.
Traveling 2,786 miles to Walla Walla, Wash., our daughter Katharine and I passed through huge green fields of corn and soybeans, often next to cornfields turned brown from the lack of rain and irrigation water. We were on the road for seven days, between Aug. 19 and 25.
We drove along beautiful little streams, crossed the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, wandered onto cliffs in South Dakota's Badlands, crossed spectacular mountains in the Rockies, saw hundreds of wind turbines and were especially intrigued by colorful geothermal waters boiling in high grounds at Yellowstone National Park near Old Faithful.
We visited mining towns, old stores, local bookstores, coffee shops, historic buildings and unusual attractions like the Corn Palace in Mitchell, S.D.
Katharine was on her way to work for AmeriCorps in Walla Walla for the next year. We both knew several places we wanted to see, but had no detailed itinerary. We never planned our route in detail nor booked any motel in advance -- the best way to travel.
The high points of our wanderings came along rural roads in Iowa, South Dakota, Wyoming and Montana.
In Dyersville, Iowa, we visited the "Field of Dreams" -- site of the iconic 1989 film starring James Earl Jones and Kevin Costner. After a local farmer builds a baseball diamond in his cornfields, Shoeless Joe Jackson and seven other players banned after the 1919 Black Sox scandal show up to play baseball.
That evening, we stayed in Worthington, Minn. In the hotel bar, Eric Vande Kolk, a man with a college degree in environmental studies and now a truck driver based in Oshkosh, Wis., spoke about how recent changes in agriculture disturb him.
Most local farms, and crops, have transformed dramatically over the past 40 years, Kolk said. I remember beautiful fields of sunflowers from several trips I made throughout the area during the early 1970s. Today they are gone.
Most farms in the grain belts of Iowa, Minnesota, South Dakota, Nebraska and Kansas, Kolk said, now grow only corn and soybeans -- at the insistence of Hormel, IBP (now Tyson) and other agriculture monopolies. Natural prairie greens and local pheasants have also disappeared.
Wages for farm workers have dropped, Kolk added, and grain-belt jobs are routinely advertised along the Mexican border, urging immigrants to come north to find work.
Just over the Minnesota border, the waterfalls in Sioux Falls, S.D., were beautiful, in their appearance and their sounds.
Not far from the falls, we watched tractor-trailers hauling large live pigs out of a large building, where they are apparently housed before slaughter.
Just across the street was a low wooden complex that also housed pigs. During our visit, the only pig we saw there was dead, lying on a platform part of the way up a short staircase. Smells engulfing the complex were somewhat less than attractive.
The 412-mile trek along Interstate 90 in South Dakota, from Minnesota to Wyoming, features a host of fascinating natural and historic sites.
Not far from Sioux Falls is the Corn Palace, in Mitchell, an unusual structure built to honor South Dakota agriculture. It attracts more than 500,000 visitors annually.
Every year, the outside walls of "the world's only corn palace" are redesigned and redecorated with new ears of corn, cut in half, often of different colors, as well as other grains.
The first Corn Palace was built in 1892. The current palace, constructed and modified between 1905 and 1937, has an engaging museum and hosts a variety of events, from concerts to basketball games.
More rolling landscapes and fewer cornfields lie west of the Missouri River.
Murdo, a town another 75 miles west along I-90, features the reconstructed 1880 Town and Longhorn Ranch, which has hosted scenes for several westerns, including "Dances With Wolves," starring Kevin Costner.
A museum at the entrance to the reconstructed 1880 Town features engaging photographs, arrowheads, dolls, boots and ranch memorabilia from cowboy days, including relics from Buffalo Bill.
The town displays more than 30 historic buildings moved in from various old ranch towns, including a very impressive saloon and hotel. The reconstructed town also features a post office, church, barn, school, bank, jewelry store, newspaper office and windmill -- all built in the late 1800s and early 1900s.
A wooden sign at the town's entrance reveals that its residents include 170 ghosts, nine cats, three dogs and 3,905 rabbits.
The historic Wall Drug Store, opened in 1931, is advertised by hundreds of signs and billboards along the roads leading to Wall, another small town 82 miles west of Murdo.
The pharmacy is a tiny part of today's Wall Drug Store complex, whose corridors feature stuffed animal heads, totem poles, animated characters, carved statues and a mini Mount Rushmore.