CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- Peaches, not seafood, were the culinary stars on our family's recent beach vacation to the Isle of Palms, S.C., near the other Charleston. The local farmer's market is open only on Tuesdays, so I didn't have much hope for great produce when I hit Piggly Wiggly on Saturday.

Boy, was I wrong. The enticing scent of ripe peaches hit me almost as soon as the store's automatic doors opened. A bin of South Carolina peaches was the source. Still cautious, I selected about half a dozen, knowing that the taste might not live up to the scent.

Wrong again.

They were juicy, flavorful and tasted like summer. The peaches were great on their own, but we especially enjoyed them in a salad that I made to accompany nearly every dinner. We're calling it the Beach Salad. It was an uncomplicated combination of greens, red onion, goat cheese, candied walnuts and peaches all tossed with a sweet vinaigrette.

I'd estimate the dressing to be 1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar and 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon sugar, a dash of garlic powder and salt and pepper. I'm not sure of the measurements because the kitchen lacked a measuring cup.

Although local, or Eastern Panhandle, peaches are still about one week away from ripening, the bins at the big grocery stores are stocked with out-of-state peaches. They're good, but not quite as flavorful or juicy as locally ripened peaches. The fragile fruit doesn't travel or store particularly well.

Still seeking that peach high, I bought them anyway. I'd been meaning to try a recipe for grilled peaches and wondered if grilling might caramelize the sugar in these not-quite ripe peaches and bring out their sweetness.

It does. The raw peaches were too firm with just a hint of peachy taste, but the heat of the grill softened the flesh and deepened their latent sweetness and flavor. The grilled peaches paired well with grilled pork tenderloin, which had been rubbed with a savory mix of spices and finished with barbecue sauce.

Served with the Beach Salad made with the ripest of the grocery store peaches, the meal almost transported us back to the al fresco evening meals we enjoyed as we dined in the beach breezes.

Reach Julie Robinson at jul...@wvgazette.com or 304-348-1230.

Grilled Pork and Peaches

2   tablespoons paprika

1   teaspoon onion powder

1   teaspoon salt

1   teaspoon black pepper

1   teaspoon cayenne pepper

Barbecue sauce

4   (1-inch thick) slices pork tenderloin

4   firm peaches, halved and pitted

Olive oil

HEAT grill to medium high.

MIX paprika, onion powder, salt, pepper and cayenne pepper.

RUB both sides of pork tenderloin slices with spice mixture.

GRILL pork for 4 to 5 minutes on each side until outside is charred, not burned, and middle is light pink. Brush with barbeque sauce. Remove from grill and cover with foil.

BRUSH the peach halves with oil and add to the grill face-down.

GRILL for 3 to 5 minutes or until soft. Remove and slice.

PLATE sliced peaches with pork.

Grilled Peaches and Cream

4   firm peaches, halved and pitted

Balsamic vinegar

Brown sugar or honey

Light olive oil

Vanilla ice cream

HEAT grill to medium high.

DRIZZLE peaches with balsamic vinegar and then sprinkle with brown sugar.

BRUSH grill with oil. Place peach halves face-down on grill.

TURN after 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle flat side with more brown sugar. Remove after another couple of minutes, when they're soft all the way through.

SERVE with ice cream.

Grilled Peaches with Pecorino and Prosciutto

Nonstick vegetable oil spray

4   firm, but ripe large peaches, halved and pitted

2   tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8   very thin slices pecorino cheese

4   thin slices prosciutto, halved lengthwise

SPRAY grill rack with nonstick spray and heat to high.

BRUSH peach halves with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

GRILL peaches until lightly charred, about 2 minutes per side.

PLACE on large plate, skin side down.

TOP each peach half with cheese slice and drape with prosciutto.

SERVE immediately.

SOURCE: Bon Appétit 2006

Grilled Peach Bruschetta

2    peaches, cut into wedges

1    loaf of ciabatta, cut in half

4    ounces goat cheese

Olive oil

Honey

Balsamic vinegar

HEAT grill to medium high.

SKEWER the peach wedges and brush them with olive oil.

COOK on the grill 3 to 5 minutes, or until lightly charred on the outside and soft throughout.

BRUSH the ciabatta halves with olive oil and place the oiled side down on the grill. Toast to desired darkness. Remove and cut into squares.

SPREAD goat cheese on the toasted ciabatta squares.

PLACE the peaches on the bread with goat cheese. Drizzle balsamic vinegar and honey over the tops and serve immediately.

Source: eastvillagekitchen.com