John Brown

Wine Boy

CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- I know I've always preached that wine appreciation is a very subjective undertaking, and that you should drink whatever you want, with or without food. I still feel that way.

Yet you may have noticed that most of my wine recommendations also come with a suggested food pairing. That's because I feel strongly that food brings out the best in wine - and vice versa.

Today I'll try to help you find the right bottle with your meal even when the wine rating experts don't give you a clue.

At least once a week I get asked, "What is your favorite wine?" My answer is always the same: "It depends."

For me, the question is incomplete unless I'm given some type of food context. For example, if asked, "What is your favorite wine with beef tenderloin," I would ask how it is to be prepared. Will the beef be marinated, dry-rubbed (and with what spices) or just seasoned with salt and pepper? Will it be grilled, pan-sautéed or oven-roasted?

Based upon the answers, I would recommend several wines that would marry nicely with that particular treatment of beef tenderloin. I don't believe wine can be objectively and properly evaluated on the merits of its own flavors, aromas and textures - without food.

This presents a problem because our information on which wines to buy often comes from the results of competitive tastings where wines are evaluated without food. The dirty little secret about many wines that score highly in these tastings is that they are usually the ones that are fuller, richer, rounder, higher in alcohol and exhibit characteristics like tropical fruit, blueberries, butter and vanilla, etc.

That's the complaint of many European winemakers (particularly the French), whose wines sometimes are leaner, more understated and generally show very poorly when pitted against new world wines where the only food consumed at the tasting is a cracker or some bland cheese.

Because these tasting panels can't provide the volume and diversity of menu items necessary to judge each and every wine, you'll need to factor this reality into your decision-making. In other words, try to imagine how well a particular bottle would match the food you intend to serve with the wine.

I know this is not a foolproof method, but it's a good way to incorporate food into the wine appreciation equation. I guarantee that once you hit the food and wine bull's-eye, you'll understand the value of this type of thinking when you're trying to pick a wine.

One publication that goes to great lengths to suggest the most appropriate pairings of food and wine is certainly true to its name. Food and Wine is my favorite magazine when it comes to emphasizing the importance of properly matching the meals we eat with the most appropriate wine. Check it out.

Speaking of food and wine, here's a pairing I recommend:

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut ($22): Sparkling wine enthusiasts will love this complex, crisp, yet rich wine made in the traditional Champagne method. Creamy and toasty with flavors of ripe pear, the wine makes a great aperitif with cheese or fruit such as strawberries. It also is a superb match to chicken Cordon Bleu.