That's the philosophy behind Delish, West Virginia's first nonprofit restaurant, owned by Janessa Spence.

"It's a movement that could really change lives," Spence said. "You take a self-sustaining restaurant and use it to raise awareness and money for charity."

Spence, who is a special education teacher at Chandler Elementary School, contacted restaurateur Virgil Sadorra last winter after she read a Gazette article about his plans to convert his downtown restaurant Cilantro's into a nonprofit restaurant. All profits, after expenses, would go to local, underfunded charities, which would also benefit from the increased awareness created through the restaurant's publicity.

In her second job as a service coordinator with West Virginia Birth to Three program, Spence refers clients in need to local charities such as Gabriel Project. She sees firsthand how invaluable programs such as those are to people who have nowhere else to turn.

"When I read that Virgil was pioneering the first nonprofit restaurant in West Virginia, I thought it was an amazing opportunity to help these people," she said.

Spence and Sadorra completed the details for Spence to buy the restaurant. She secured a loan, painted the interior and opened Delish May 17 as a nonprofit restaurant with Virgil as business consultant and, perhaps more important to the customers, as the chef.

They hope to establish a business model other restaurant owners could use to go nonprofit. It will be called Practically Delish, a reference to Sadorra's first restaurant, the original Delish.

Recently, the Panera Bread restaurant chain opened a pay-what-you-wish restaurant in Clayton, Mo. Customers in the flush pay full price, or more, and the poor pay less, or even get their meal free. Customers are on the honor system. The restaurant made $100,000 in its first month of operation.

Delish's nonprofit status is pending, which means the restaurant cannot receive tax-exempt benefits. Spence's accountant is working on initial sales figures, but startup and overhead costs will cut into profits, as they do with any new restaurant. She hopes to contribute 10 percent of initial sales to the Gabriel Project and eventually raise the percentage of sales given to charity to 20 percent or 30 percent.

The Gabriel Project is an ecumenical group that provides practical support for pregnant women and families with infants and young children. They gather diapers, cribs, clothes, car seats and other infant supplies for families in need.

"As a Birth to Three coordinator, my job is to find resources for people who have hit rock bottom. These people are in desperate times," she said. "It's nice to be on this side, helping to provide some relief. It's a great feeling to know we've really made a difference."

Profits will benefit Manna Meal through August, then go to Secret Santa in September. Spence is considering other charities. Administrators should contact Spence to fill out an application.

One charity is literally in their backyard -- Gabriel Project's office backs up to Delish.

"We look for three things. Our priorities are children, people in need and environmental concerns," said Spence, who advocates an increased recycling effort in Charleston. She cuts down on waste in the restaurant, using biodegradable corn-based utensils.

The restaurant is open for lunch only, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. For $8, or whatever they can afford to pay, customers get a plateful of Sadorra's creations. Thai and spicy garlic satays are always on the menu, along with couscous, both grain and green salads, fish, meatballs and pork or beef dishes.

Sadorra rounds out the rest of the menu with whatever strikes his fancy. Last week, it was roasted red onion and potato frittata and flank steak sandwiches with horseradish and caramelized onions.

"He changes it up. If we run out of something, he's able to create something else," Spence said.

They're considering rotating a built-to-order taco and burrito line like Cilantro's, or maybe a similar concept for hamburgers, into the menu. Spence posts a general menu on the Practically Delish Facebook site.

Most customers pay $8, but some pay more. Others pay less. "If all they have is $3, we still give them a full plate of food," Sadorra said.

Spence, 31, and Sadorra, 39, also offer catering services, and will allow nonprofit groups to use the restaurant free in the evenings for meetings or gatherings. The catering business is under the nonprofit umbrella and benefits the same charities.

Because of Chandler Elementary School's year-round schedule, Spence has three-week breaks between sessions when she can work at Delish. On school days, she teaches special education students during day, then goes to her Birth to Three program job.

It distresses Spence to hear cynics question whether Delish's nonprofit moniker is a marketing tool. She took out loans to buy the place, and hasn't paid herself a salary. She's keeping her two day jobs.

"Since this is a new concept here in Charleston, I understand that people might have a hard time understanding what we are doing," she said. "Sometimes with new ideas, people tend to be skeptical about the motive behind the movement. Anytime you do something outside of the box and people's comfort zone, some individuals try to put you down and find fault before you can even get started."

"I've always talked about change and making things better. We do that here," she said. "Eat here and you're helping to feed someone else, or buy supplies like diapers for them. It makes giving easy.

"I truly believe in this movement and want it to be successful so that the pilot program is up and running and making a difference in our community, not just here in Charleston, but in communities across the nation."

Practically Delish, 110 McFarland St., is open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Call 304-343-2121.

Reach Julie Robinson at jul...@wvgazette.com or 304-348-1230.